Wedding 411: Finding the Right Gown

When you get down to it, there really are only a few gown silhouettes but they come in every style, fabric, and embellishment imaginable. You have to try them on to see what works best for your height, frame, and body type. Some basic styles include:

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Princess line sheath gown from Isaac Mizrahi Bridal
$89.99 from Target

Fitted bodice gown with A-line skirt from Isaac Mizrahi Bridal
$159.99 from Target

JB Collections off shoulder taffeta gown with trumpet skirt
$218 from Nordstrom.com

ABS beaded empire chiffon gown
$440 from Nordstrom.com

Princess Line

Can be a sheath or A-line. Two vertical front seams running over the bust line to the hemline of the gown. On an A-line, this is a very slimming style for those with a pear shape. On a sheath, the seams help fit the gown on a curvy figure. It is very difficult to fit princess seams on those with one hip higher than the other (many of us have this problem and don't know it). It causes a pucker or pouch like effect in the center front of the gown. This may be difficult to see in a larger store sample, but when the gown is fitted, it will be apparent and nothing can be done to correct it.

Sheath

Straight lines from bodice to hem. A sheath can incorporate a variety of different necklines from strapless to off-the-shoulder.

Ball Gown

Features a fitted bodice, usually nipped in at the waist, with an ultra full skirt enhanced by petticoats underneath to give the skirt more volume. The ball gown is not ideal for every body type, but it is still the most popular wedding gown style. Try on one to see if it shortens you. If you have short legs, this style may not be your best choice. If you are 5'4 or less this style will work better for you if you leave off any embellishment or trim on the hem of the gown-- it will visually make you seem even shorter than you are.

Fitted Bodice

A fitted bodice is typically fitted to the waistline or even to the top of the hipline on most styles. The bodice usually nips in at the waist and fits easily to or over the hip. Many designers prefer to stop the bodice length at the natural waistline, leaving the skirt to flow over the top of the hip but for styles with a very full skirt, a longer torso on the bodice is more appealing visually, so the bodice would stop at the top of the hip. This is a good style for almost every figure except those with a thick or heavy middle or a very short waist.

A-line

An A shaped skirt works well on a variety of different necklines. It is a slim alternative to the ball gown when very wide and a wide version of a sheath when made very narrow. An A-line works well on almost every figure type, but it is not the best look for a very long and tall body type because the bodice can look very short and somewhat out of proportion.

Mermaid, flared, trumpet, or fishtail skirt

No matter what you call it, this style has experienced a renaissance in popularity due to the celebrity factor over the past few years. Usually fitted at the waist and nipped in over the hips, the skirt then flares out from the knee down to form a demi -skirt and/or train. This isn't a good look for those with larger hips or a wide derriere unless you are JLo or Beyonce' and have the confidence to pull it off.

Empire

An empire cut is another quintessential style that works on almost every body type and on almost every type of gown. The seam on an empire cut runs horizontally, just under the bust line. The skirt can be a ball gown, a sheath, empire, or A-line with the empire bodice. For those with a short torso, a thicker waistline, pear shaped hips, or just a long and lanky body, the under the bust seam on the empire will create an illusion of all the right things to counter your worst body flaws.

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